Trekking Diary: Backpacking to French Island

A night in the French Island

On a cold October morning, we left home to catch the 6.42 train to Flinders street. It was still dark and very chilly, but we were so looking forward to this day to do our first backpack camping. We have done a numerous car camping in the wilderness, but leaving on foot was new to us.

After a 40 minute train ride, we changed to a Frankston line for another one hours journey. We had breakfast while on the train and got off at Frankston to catch the v-line to Stony point jetty. As we caught earliest possible trains, we didn't have to worry about missing this train. After about 20 minutes we reached the Stony point which is the end of the line.

Stony point

I read on the web that we can purchase ferry tickets from a small cafe by the station, so we went ahead and bought two return tickets each costing $ 24. One can buy them on board ferry as well, but we had plenty of time so yeah, why not sort it out.

Small cafe that sells ferry tickets

After purchasing tickets we found toilets and then freshened ourselves before walking down the jetty.

It was beautiful in the morning out there and despite the cold wind, we walked further down and watched birds and other boats until the ferry arrived.

It was a long wait as we had arrived way early but it was far better that missing the ferry and having to wait another 2 hours. Finally, around 10 in the morning, we boarded the ferry, stored our packs away and went up to get seated.

We caught a seal in action eating his breakfast of a big fish. That was a quick ride of a little more than fifteen minutes before we could clearly see the Island jetty.

Tankerton Jetty

We got off at the Tankerton and walked along the path leading to the visitor center. We were stunned by the sight of a long fleet of rusted vehicles along the visitor center. At the center, you can hire either wheels or a bicycle or get on a bus that would take you sight seeing around the Island.

None of the above options were for us as we were backpacking so we got the direction for the General store which is the only store on the island, and started on foot. We saw a group of elderly people getting on to the one and only bus for a tour.

The bus itself looked like it has time traveled from back in 70's. Everything on this island had this strange vibe that it looked the whole place is locked in a time capsule.

It was a long walk of about 5 km to the Store. We felt like we had been walking forever. The road was endless and the area deserted except for a few people passing us on bicycles. We were carrying heavy backpacks and it wasn't easy to enjoy the walk. But the sights were pretty and we stopped at few places to eat our sandwiches.

Endless road

We passed a few meadows, swamps and farm lands. But they were very different to what you'd find on the main land. It wasn't surprising that not many people live there, because the place is left out and never gotten enough attention from anyone. There were no much buildings or whatsoever except a few houses and a fire station and a community hall. All in all, the island is pretty intact.

Abandoned machines

There were no marked roads, except for just two sign pots at two junctions and we almost thought we got lost. When we finally saw the stores few hundred meters away, it was the best thing.

Surprisingly, the store was in a very good condition and it even had few motels for people to stay.

We went in mainly to get a map and to get the directions. The shop keeper was very helpful. She explained the routes on the map and pointed out few places to visit.

The store had a small restaurant, essentials item to sell and some local wines and ice cream with wired flavors. We bought two cones and a bottle of wine (only thing we didn't bring).

The farm house on the island is the popular destination of most visitors. Our campsite was on the left corner of the island. We decided to skip visiting places, as it's gonna take a lot of time on foot, with packs.

This thing called 'pinnacle' was one thing we wanted to see, which is a structure where you can climb up to get a nice birds eye view of the island. So we got the direction and headed to pinnacle. Our plan afterwards, was to cut through the swamps to the campsite, instead of taking the road back.

So we started the long walk again and the further we got the lonelier it got. No sign of civilization. It was wonderful and it felt like we were the only souls on earth.

We were looking for any sigh of a pinnacle but couldn't find anything. Further down, at a fork junction, we met a couple who were returning from the pinnacle, the only humans we saw on that road. Then we started ahead, but after about half an hour, there was still no sign of pinnacle.

It was decided to walk anyway, cos there wasn't much options left. Then we came to a management track soon after and we were still confused.

We stopped and tried to see our gps location to no avail. All we could see was an arrow on an empty patch (Island). As we looked around, suddenly, we saw a strange thing popping out of the trees.

The pinnacle

That was an odd structure, we ignored it and decided to walk down to the camp site. We knew we missed the pinnacle somewhere up there. But later we learnt the strange structure is the Pinnacle after all. We had clearly missed it.

Then came the hardest and most dreaded part of the journey. We followed the track in to the wilderness filled with bushes and swamps. At some places, it was hard to find the actual track, and sometimes we followed tire marks.

There was nothing to see except for the dry plants and the endless sky. Oh but we saw a few Echidnas trying to run away from us.

A shy Echidna

We kept walking without any direction or sign. At one point I thought we got lost and wanted to turn back and go to the main road. But my partner convinced me somehow and we continued on. It felt like an eternity.

In the middle of nowhere

Only clue we had was the blue arrow on the Google apps. So we could know whether we were heading west or not. As long as we are nearing the cost line, we should be fine. It was already afternoon and we had no idea how far were we from the campsite. Next obstacle was a huge swamp. Unfortunately we were not wearing out hiking boots, just the runners and crossing these swamps were a major obstacle. There was no way we could get to the other side without getting muddy and wet. I so wanted to turn back and return to road. But my partner was adamant that we do this somehow and he started cutting thought the bushes. And I followed. We had to clear our way around the swamp. Ya to much relief, we were finally on the other side and it wasn't that difficult, needed a bit of courage.

Dirty swamp

Crossing the swamp, lifted our spirits up that helped us keep walking despite of no sign. And finally the track started to get shape and we were in a clearing with a wooden fence and what was that!! An Orange arrow. We are saved.

The rest was easy. Not physically, but mentally. Knowing the path was taking you somewhere was a big relief. The scenery started changing and it got prettier.

There were clear signs that we were nearing cost line. The track was covered in white sand and the arrow on the Google map was on the verge of the island coastal line. We entered the Coastal road soon after that and saw the arrow towards the campsite.

After a brisk walk among the thicket, we were at the beautiful camp site.

Lovely camp site

It looked like we were the only people there and so yea, it was like we had the entire Island for ourselves that night. Without much delay we pitched the tent, so it gave us time to enjoy the beach before sun set.

It was the loveliest camp site I have ever stayed. The sound of the ocean, cool breeze, shady trees and flowers all over, couldn't have imagined that. Who ever who had named this Fair Heaven, was absolutely correct.

As soon as we pitched the tent, we headed to the beach just on the other side of the site. It was so pretty and not a single soul except for sea gulls and black swans.

Main land in the horizon

This sight is all worth of that long hard walk and crossing swamps. I was swearing on the way, that I'm gonna lie down and not get up until dinner once in the camp site. But all of a sudden, we weren't tired at all. It was still around 5 in the evening and we decided to have a tea by the beach.

Tea in the making

black swans

just before sun set

It was awesome having tea while enjoying the lovely sun set. After the tea, it was time for a lazy stroll along the beach which is one of our favorite things. I always adored, walking the sandy stretches talking, joking,laughing reminiscing. For a few minutes, you forget the whole world.

Sting ray carcass

I suppose we walked for more than an hour and returned to the tent on time to cook dinner.

Dinner

Dinner was two instant meal packs heated, that we had never tried before. They tasted divine. The wine was pretty good and we were glad we picked the bottle. We never expected that to be a romantic getaway, but at the end, that was what it ended up being.

After a nice dinner, we cleaned the plates, and took the mats down to the beach. With a rest of the wine,a cookie plate and the magical night, it was dreamy.

Pretty colors

We spent few hours chitchatting on the beach, in the pitch dark, under the starry sky, until it was time for a good sleep.

Lights on the main land

I would say, we slept tight that night, and woke up to a beautiful morning. The first thing we heard was the noice of the swans. We slowly walked down to the beach and couldn't believe what we were seeing. There were black swans all over the sea and they were very close to the shore. We stayed there watching that for a long time.

Morning

After washing up and a hot cup of tea it was time again for another stroll along the beach. It was nicer in the morning, but the tides took all the sea water away and it was a long sandy stretch before long. We returned back to the site to have breakfast and get ready to catch the 12 o' clock ferry.

Breakfast

It was indeed hard to leave that place. After packing up everything, we took a last look at the beach and started walking down the Coastal road, this time, no swamps. The scenery along the road was very pretty. There were a few beautiful and magnificent farm houses or bungalows, green meadows, cattle, ducks and a lot of pretty wild flowers.

As there were plenty of time to catch the ferry, we walked up to the General store and bought ice cream and walked leisurely towards the Tankerton jetty.